Watches & Watch Parts

How to shop for watches and watch parts online

Size: case diameter, lug-to-lug and thickness. Case diameter gets the attention, but lug-to-lug length (the distance from top to bottom lug tips) decides whether a watch overhangs your wrist. As a rough guide, lug-to-lug should be less than the flat top of your wrist. Thickness matters for shirt cuffs. Measure your wrist and compare with a watch you already own.

Lug width and straps. Lug width (commonly 18, 20 or 22mm) determines which straps fit. Check it before ordering if you plan to swap straps, and note whether the bracelet uses solid or hollow end links and quick-release spring bars.

Movement types. Quartz is accurate and low-maintenance. Automatic movements wind with wrist motion; common workhorses include the Seiko NH35 and NH36 (the NH36 adds a day complication), which are robust, hackable and serviceable almost anywhere. Accuracy for these is commonly rated in tens of seconds per day. A "true" GMT lets you jump the local hour hand independently, which travelers prefer to "caller" GMTs. Skeleton watches show the movement but can be harder to read.

Materials. Sapphire crystal resists scratches far better than mineral glass. Titanium is lighter than steel and hypoallergenic for most people, but it can scratch more visibly. Water resistance ratings are pressure tests, not dive depths: 100m is fine for swimming, while serious diving calls for 200m and an ISO 6425 rating.

Modding. Parts must match the movement and case: dial feet positions, hand hole sizes, crystal diameter and gasket all have to fit. Watch-Modz itself recommends professional installation. A first mod needs a case opener, movement holder, hand press and lots of patience; dust and fingerprints on a dial are the most common beginner damage.

Return windows and fees. Boderry accepts returns only within 8 days of delivery, unworn with protective film intact, and refused deliveries are refunded minus 20%. Tsarbomba includes one free return or exchange within 30 days and needs the complete box and warranty card. Watch-Modz gives 30 days on unused parts, sale items are non-refundable, and you pay return shipping. Keep films on until you are sure.

Warranty and service. Boderry advertises a 24-month movement warranty and Tsarbomba a 2-year quality warranty. Plan for automatic movement servicing every several years, and check that a local watchmaker will work on your movement.

Duties. Watches shipped from overseas may owe VAT and import duties; Boderry and Tsarbomba both put these on the buyer.

Budget tiers. Individual mod parts run $7 to $60, and a complete NH35 mod build often lands under $300. Microbrand titanium automatics run $150 to $500.

Which brand fits which buyer

• Seiko modders building on an SKX007-style case with NH35 or NH36 movements: Watch-Modz.
• Beginners who want a custom watch and will pay a watchmaker to assemble it: Watch-Modz.
• First-time automatic buyers wanting titanium and sapphire under $250, or travelers after a true GMT under $500: Boderry Watch Co., deciding within 8 days.
• Statement watch buyers who like swapping bezels and straps: Tsarbomba.
• Gift shoppers wanting a bold watch with a 2-year warranty: Tsarbomba.